Back in the early 1970s, I was told, as a young policeman, that one of the advantages of the .357 Magnum was that it would “bust an engine block”. I did not know if it would, but that was the persistent rumor. I’ve always wondered what it would really do, but hauling a heavy engine block to the range and then hauling it off to the dump was too much for me to tackle.

But my old friend Boyd called me last week and told me he had a solution. He had a couple of old engine blocks and a tractor on a trailer and wanted to know if I wanted to shoot them. I said, “Sure!”

Today we went to the range and he used the tractor to place the block down range.

We agreed that any day a man gets to play with his tractor is a good day.

This engine block is from a 1974 Dodge 360 ci engine. It is pretty heavy compared to modern engines, but anything that will penetrate this one shouldn’t have any trouble with a modern aluminum block.

Keep in mind that on any engine block there are “thick” and “thin” areas on the block. And all different kinds of engines have different thicknesses. We are not trying to draw conclusions about “all” engine blocks, but just want to see what happens to this one, as an example.

Also remember that before a round even gets to the engine block in a car, it will have to penetrate fenders, fender shirts, and other assorted stuff.

First I will shoot the block with a .357 Magnum, with a 158 grain JHP round.

Here we go.

My first shot hit a freeze plug. Wouldn’t you know it?

The only 1 ½ inch area I don’t want to hit and that’s where I hit it.

Well, let’s try another round on more solid metal.

It only made a lead smear on the block.

No “busting” of the block at all.

Well, let’s try a .44 Magnum shooting a 240 grain JHP, loaded hot.

I will use my Ruger Super Blackhawk .44 Magnum.